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Powerhouses Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein cap New York Fashion Week

A model presents a creation from Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2014 collection during New York Fashion Week, September 10, 2013. REUTERS/Joshua L
A model presents a creation from Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2014 collection during New York Fashion Week, September 10, 2013. REUTERS/Joshua L

By Jonathan Allen

NEW YORK (Reuters) - New York Fashion Week drew to a close on Thursday with prim, 1960s-inspired looks from Ralph Lauren and ragamuffin chic from Calvin Klein.

Among the last of hundreds of fashion shows that filled the week, the trend-setting Lauren went relentlessly black and white - a theme among many designers this week - then switched to eye-popping fluorescents.

His black wool crepe ottoman jacket worn over a knitted vest, white cotton shirt and black tie, along with black silk shorts and patent leather Mary Jane shoes brought to mind a tomboyish schoolgirl.

Black-and-white checked pantsuits in the Charlie Chaplin-meets-Annie Hall mode featured oversized lapels.

The youthful looks were accessorized with newsboy caps or Harry Potter-style spectacles.

Balancing out the collection were blocks of unearthly fluorescents, including searing neon leather jackets topping miniskirts.

The fashion world's attention now turns to spring and summer 2014 collection shows in London, Paris and Milan.

After Lauren's late 20th-century classics, the Calvin Klein womenswear collection on Thursday looked post-apocalyptic.

The outfits seemed fiercely scavenged, as though designer Francisco Costa had rummaged through piles of admittedly high-end scraps of silk and leather.

Several dresses consisted of broad hoops of fabric encircling the body but without quite lining up - there were no clean vertical lines here.

A knee-length skirt in faded emerald had excesses of fabric flapping off one side. Sleeves on the matching top ended at the elbow in dangling loose threads.

Indeed, the fraying hems brought the threat of unraveling everywhere, making the outfits seem loaded with back stories.

A black coat gaped open at the back - as if whoever had been stitching it ran out of thread or just gave up before finishing it.

It could easily have been a mess, but the highly engineered tailoring and the careful proportions gave beauty to the collection.

New York-based designer Anna Sui hewed close to her comfort zone, playing up elements from the late 1960s and early 1970s such as crocheted vests and fringe, mostly in warm tones and golds.

Among Sui's free-spirited, bohemian looks were kimonos, tunics and caftans of lace and printed or iridescent chiffon. Flowing scarves lent an air of Stevie Nicks to the presentation.

Dresses and tops came in crinkled chiffon, and floor-length gowns were gold lace.

For Sui's menswear, velvet and suede were the order of the day, in tones of teal and rose.

(Additional reporting by Chris Michaud; Editing by Ellen Wulfhorst and Eric Walsh)

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